Pisagua, Chile

From Pampas Green to Andean Blue: Crossing the Roof of the World via Paso de Jama

Picking up my truck at the Port of Montevideo felt like the true starting gun for this South American adventure. But the first leg wasn\’t about drama; it was about patience, distance, and green—so much green.

For hundreds of miles, the journey through Uruguay and Argentina was defined by the pampa. It’s an almost featureless expanse, an ocean of grass where the fence lines are longer than any road, and the vast herds of cattle are the true monarchs. It was a meditative drive, where days blended into long, flat stretches, preparing the mind for the vertical shock to come.

The Tilt: Reaching the Andes

The world truly tilted once we reached Jujuy. Suddenly, the smooth, flat horizon was replaced by colossal, multi-colored mountain walls. We’d reached the start of the Andes. My base for the night was Tilcara (2600 m), a beautiful pre-Andean town and home to the essential last gas station before the real climbing began.

The next morning, I was determined to get an early start to avoid the congestion of the trucker crowd on Ruta 52. This was the main event.

The climb was relentless and breathtaking. In about an hour, the truck chewed through the altitude, pushing us past the thin air barrier and up toward 4500 m. The landscape shifted from scrubland to an alien world of ochre mountains and stark white salares (salt flats). We passed through high-altitude settlements like Susques, places that feel like they defy gravity and civilization.

The Roof of the World

After about two and a half hours of climbing, we arrived at the massive, isolated border station of Paso de Jama. Once the customs check was complete, I crossed over into Chile and onto the legendary Ruta 27.

The Chilean side was even more demanding, immediately taking the elevation up to nearly 5000 m. The air was thin, the winds were high, and the only other inhabitants were the stoic Andean foxes, hunting for whatever tough life the altiplano offered. It truly felt like driving on the roof of the world.

The descent was spectacular. By early afternoon, the high desert plateau dropped into the red, arid expanse of the Atacama Desert. I passed the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama, a magnet for travelers, and finally pulled into Calama, concluding a dramatic, single-day transition from the Argentine lowlands to the highest navigable passes in the Andes. What a drive!

Paso de Jama Crossing Youtube

Description: Youtube

Join me for the most dramatic single-day drive of my South American truck trip! We start on the vast, cattle-dotted pampas of Uruguay and Argentina, but the landscape changes violently when we hit the Andes in Jujuy. Follow along as I leave Tilcara (2600m) and climb Ruta 52, crossing stunning salares (salt flats) and passing through high-altitude towns like Susques. The final ascent takes us over Paso de Jama and onto Chile’s Ruta 27, where we peak near 5000m in high winds, surrounded by Andean foxes. See the full transition from green lowlands to the arid, Martian beauty of the Atacama Desert on the way to Calama. Hit like and subscribe for more overlanding adventures!

La Tirana and Pica are two popular day trip destinations from Iquique, Chile. La Tirana is a small town located in an oasis in the Pampa del Tamarugal, while Pica is an oasis town surrounded by the Atacama Desert. Both towns offer a unique cultural and natural experience, making them popular among tourists visiting the region. La Tirana is known for its annual festival, La Fiesta de La Tirana, which draws thousands of visitors each year. On the other hand, Pica is famous for its hot springs, lush vegetation, and fruit orchards. Visitors can easily combine a visit to both towns in a single day trip, making for a diverse and exciting adventure.

To make the most of the day trip to La Tirana and Pica, it is important to start early and wear plenty of sun cream. The region is known for its hot and dry climate, and the sun can be particularly intense during the day. Therefore, visitors should plan to arrive in La Tirana early in the morning to avoid the heat of the day and explore the town\’s attractions, including the church and the museum. Afterward, visitors can head to Pica to enjoy the hot springs, relax in the lush gardens, and sample the local fruits and cuisine. By starting early and wearing sun cream, visitors can avoid sunburn and dehydration, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable day trip experience.

Exploring La Tirana

La Tirana is a small town located about 70 kilometers east of Iquique and is famous for its annual festival, the Fiesta de la Tirana. The festival, which takes place every July, is a vibrant mix of ancient customs and newer traditions, attracting thousands of dancers who come to dance before the statue of the Virgen del Carmen. The history of the festival dates back centuries, to 1540, and it is a significant event in the cultural calendar of Chile. The festival is a celebration of faith, bringing together Catholic and Andean symbology in a joyous, whirling, twirling, jumping, and musical celebration. Exploring the history and significance of the festival is a must-do activity for anyone visiting La Tirana.

Visiting the La Tirana Church and Museum is another fantastic way to experience the local culture and learn more about the history of the region. The church is a beautiful example of colonial architecture and is home to the statue of the Virgen del Carmen, which is the centerpiece of the festival. The museum showcases the history of the festival and the town, including a display of traditional costumes and artifacts. Visitors can learn about the cultural significance of the festival and the role it plays in the lives of the people of La Tirana.

Experiencing the local culture and cuisine is a crucial part of any trip to La Tirana. The town is known for its traditional dishes, including empanadas and humitas, which are made from corn and filled with meat or cheese. Visitors can try these local delicacies at one of the many food stalls that line the streets during the festival. The festival is also an excellent opportunity to experience traditional music and dance, with performers from all over Chile and South America coming to participate. 

Discovering Pica

One of the main attractions in Pica is the natural hot springs, known as the Termas de Pica. The hot springs are located in an oasis in the middle of the Atacama Desert, providing a unique and relaxing experience for visitors. After an early start from Iquique, tourists can enjoy a soak in the hot springs, which are said to have therapeutic properties. The warm water and tranquil surroundings make for a perfect way to unwind and recharge before continuing the day trip.

In addition to the hot springs, Pica also offers a beautiful oasis for visitors to explore. The Pica Oasis is a lush green area in the middle of the desert, featuring a variety of plant and animal life. Hiking through the oasis provides a unique opportunity to experience the contrast between the arid desert landscape and the vibrant oasis. Tourists can also learn about the local flora and fauna from knowledgeable guides. The hike is a great way to get some exercise and fresh air while enjoying the stunning scenery.

No trip to Pica is complete without sampling the local food and drink scene. Visitors can try a variety of traditional Chilean dishes and drinks, including empanadas, mote con huesillo , and pisco sours. The town of Pica is known for its high-quality produce, including fruits such as mangoes and papayas. Tourists can also visit local markets to purchase souvenirs and handicrafts made by local artisans. Overall, Pica offers a unique and enjoyable day trip from Iquique, providing opportunities for relaxation, exploration, and cultural immersion.

The region is also home to the Museo Paleontológico de Caldera, a famous dinosaur museum that showcases the rich history of dinosaur fossils in the area.

The Tarapaca region has a long history of dinosaur fossils, with evidence of dinosaur remains dating back to the Late Triassic and Early Jurassic. The region\’s coastal areas and rift valleys have yielded numerous dinosaur fossils, including both body fossils and trace fossils. These fossils have provided valuable insights into the evolution and diversity of dinosaurs in the region, and have contributed to our understanding of the history of life on Earth.

The Museo Paleontológico de Caldera is a premier destination for those interested in natural history and paleontology. The museum boasts a collection of over 15,000 fossil specimens, featuring discoveries from the region. The exhibits and displays are interactive and hands-on, allowing visitors to learn about the rich history of dinosaur fossils in the area. The museum also features dinosaur statues and information as visitors walk around in a circuit

The history and culture of Easter Island

Easter Island, also known as Rapa Nui, is a small island located in the southeastern Pacific Ocean, at the southeasternmost point of the Polynesian Triangle in Oceania. The island was first settled by Polynesian people, likely between 700 and 1100 CE. These early settlers developed a unique culture and way of life, which included the construction of impressive stone statues known as moai. These statues were built to honor their ancestors and were placed on platforms called ahu. The early Polynesian settlements on Easter Island were a thriving community, with a complex social structure and a rich artistic and cultural heritage.

One of the most striking features of Easter Island is the moai statues that dot the landscape. These massive stone figures were carved by hand from volcanic rock and transported across the island to their final resting places on ahu platforms. The construction of these statues is a testament to the ingenuity and skill of the early Polynesian settlers, who were able to create these impressive works of art using only simple tools and techniques. The purpose of the moai statues is still debated by scholars, but it is believed that they were created to honor ancestors or to serve as a symbol of power and authority.

The history of Easter Island was forever changed with the arrival of European explorers and the subsequent annexation of the island to Chile in the late 19th century. This period of European contact brought with it disease, slavery, and cultural disruption, leading to a decline in the island\’s population and a loss of traditional knowledge and practices. Despite these challenges, the people of Easter Island have maintained their unique cultural identity and continue to celebrate their heritage through traditional music, dance, and art. Today, the island\’s economy is largely based on tourism, with visitors coming from all over the world to experience the island\’s natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture.

Getting around on Easter Island

Driving on Easter Island is a popular option for tourists who wish to explore the island at their own pace. However, it\’s important to note that there is only one main road on the island, which circles the perimeter. The road is paved and well-maintained, but it can be narrow in some areas and may require cautious driving. Several car rental agencies are available on the island, and rates are relatively affordable. It\’s important to note that driving off-road is prohibited, as it can damage the delicate ecosystem and archaeological sites.

For those who prefer not to drive, public transportation options are available on Easter Island. Buses run along the main road, making stops at popular tourist destinations and towns. The buses are relatively inexpensive, but they may not be as frequent or reliable as some tourists would prefer. Additionally, the buses may not operate on Sundays or holidays.

Bicycle and walking tours are another popular way to get around Easter Island. Several tour companies offer guided tours by bike or on foot, allowing visitors to explore the island\’s natural beauty and archaeological sites. These tours are a great option for those who want to experience the island\’s unique culture and history while also getting some exercise. It\’s important to note that some of the island\’s terrain can be challenging, so visitors should be prepared for some physical exertion. Additionally, there are several affordable hotels and guesthouses on the island, making it easy to find accommodations for those who wish to explore the island at a more leisurely pace.

Accommodation options on Easter Island

Easter Island, also known as Rapa Nui, offers a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. For budget-conscious travelers, there are several cheap hotels and hostels available on the island. These options offer basic amenities and simple accommodations, but are a great choice for those looking to save money and spend more time exploring the island. Visitors can find these budget-friendly options through online booking platforms or by contacting local travel agencies.

For those looking for more mid-range or luxury accommodations, there are several hotels on the island that offer more amenities and services. These hotels provide comfortable rooms, on-site restaurants, and various recreational activities, such as swimming pools and spa facilities. Some of these hotels also offer guided tours and excursions to explore the island\’s unique attractions, making them a great choice for those looking for a more comprehensive travel experience.

Visitors looking for a more unique and authentic experience can opt for staying in a traditional Rapa Nui house or camping. These accommodations offer a chance to immerse oneself in the local culture and traditions, and to experience the island\’s natural beauty up close. Camping is also a popular option for those looking to explore the island\’s more remote areas and enjoy the great outdoors. Visitors can book these unique accommodations through local travel agencies or online booking platforms. In conclusion, Easter Island offers a variety of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference. Whether visitors are looking for a budget-friendly hostel, a mid-range hotel, or a unique cultural experience, there is something for everyone on this beautiful island.

The ancestral Rapa Nui crafts and their traditional techniques

The ancestral Rapa Nui craftsmanship is one of the most authentic expressions of the culture of this people. However, there is little knowledge about this art form. The exhibition \”Tapa\’o Tupuna: Ancestral Rapa Nui Crafts\” seeks to spread this tradition through the works of island cultists. Rapa Nui craftsmanship stands out for its extraordinary technical development in Eastern Polynesia. In particular, the techniques of weaving with plant fibers and carving in wood and stone are notable.

Weaving techniques with plant fibers are a fundamental part of Rapa Nui ancestral crafts. The island\’s inhabitants use fibers from plants such as hau, mahute and patiu to create baskets, bags and other everyday objects. Basket weaving is an ancient tradition in Chile, and in Rapa Nui, the textile technique is related to traditional clothing and the use of fibers. The weaving pieces feature geometric patterns and symbolic designs that represent the culture and history of the island. An example of this technique is the ocher and purple vegetable fiber basket, woven concentrically and sewn with cotton thread.

Wood and stone carving is another prominent technique in Rapa Nui ancestral crafts. The island\’s artisans use traditional tools to sculpt human figures, animals and other decorative objects. These carvings are linked to rites and ancient traditions, and their ancestral role is fundamental in the Rapa Nui culture. In addition, the artisans have received influences from other cultures, such as the Mapuche, which also have a rich tradition in wood carving. The presence of carvings in the collection of the \”Tapa\’o Tupuna\” exhibition allows visitors to connect with ancestral Rapa Nui crafts and learn more about this cultural expression.

A review of La Estación Restaurant in Pozo Almonte and its unique characteristics

The La Estación restaurant is located in Pozo Almonte, in the Pampa del Tamarugal. The restaurant\’s atmosphere is cozy and familiar, making it an ideal place to enjoy a meal with friends or family. The restaurant\’s decoration is unique, with a wide collection of antiques that attract the attention of diners. In addition, the restaurant has outdoor spaces, allowing you to enjoy the natural beauty of the area while enjoying a delicious meal.

The restaurant\’s decoration is one of the most unique features of La Estación. The place has a large collection of antiques, which includes objects such as old cameras, radios, telephones, and other period objects. This collection of antiques creates a unique and welcoming atmosphere that makes diners feel like they are in a museum.

The kitchen at La Estación restaurant offers a wide variety of dishes, from typical Chilean dishes to international options. The dishes are prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients, which guarantees exceptional flavor. In addition, the restaurant has a salad buffet and a wide selection of natural juices. The combination of exceptional cuisine and unique decoration make La Estación a place that cannot be missed when visiting Pozo Almonte.

“I have managed to survive thirty years thanks to craftsmanship,” says Eduardo Ossandón, 46 years old. He was born in Calama, but raised in Arica since he was almost two years old. In love with Arica, he considers himself completely Arican and loves the city. He attributes this to its unmatched climate: “Arica has everything a human being could want: beaches, deserts, highlands and the highest lake in the world.”

In 1983 he began working on the craft thanks to one of his friends, who taught him much of what he practices to this day. However, Eduardo says that “most of the craftsman\’s trade is learned by doing. “You experiment and dare.”

Graduated from the Polytechnic High School with a technician in engine maintenance, the artist says that “although it may sound like nothing to do with my job, there I learned to draw designs, which has served me a lot as a craftsman (…) People usually see the final product , but first there is a lot of design work and preparing raw materials.”

The specialty of this renowned artisan is ceramics, since according to him “it was love at first sight.” When he started working with this raw material, he couldn\’t stop doing it. According to him, “craft is the mother art, but the least rewarded.” This is because \”in Chile we do not have a law that protects us as artisans, unlike Peru, Bolivia, and even Argentina.\” He tells me, between the materials from his workshop and the peace of the Artisan Village, that there in neighboring countries you can hardly enter with foreign crafts, because “they ask to pay taxes, permits, invitations. On the other hand, here, everyone comes in with whatever they want and sells it cheaper.”

According to this experienced artist, he has complete confidence in Mayor and his team. He believes that at last more importance can be given to this issue that is so neglected in our country.

“Competition within crafts is cruel,” Eduardo tells me with a humble look. Then he adds that \”it is full of\” artisans \”, who are actually merchants, those who buy the sculptures outside and resell them at a higher price.\”

They have called Eduardo from various cities and countries to offer him jobs, but given his love for Arica and the northern climate, he has not been able to accept, not even when he received offers to go to Puerto Rico.

What stands out most about his long career is that he has been able to visit several areas of Chile, from Arica to Concepción and Arequipa in Peru. But on the other hand, he also feels that he needs to fulfill his dream: giving craft classes to children.

Ossandón offered 5 scholarships to children who want to participate in his craft workshop this summer. Starting on Thursday the 24th, these activities began in his workshop within the Artisan Village of Arica. This scholarship will serve until the summer ends and the school year begins.

The Artisanal Village is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. with a brief interruption during lunchtime. It is clear that we must help promote this type of art in our community, starting by attending and recognizing local talent.

Under the administration of the Peruvian Corporation of Airports and Commercial Aviation (CORPAC), the Velasco Astete International Airport in Cusco received this Wednesday, October 4, the first flight with which LATAM Airlines Peru resumed its operations between this city and Santiago de Chile. Likewise, it is preparing to receive two international Avianca flights starting on October 30, which will link the Archaeological Capital of America with La Paz, Bolivia, and Bogotá, Colombia, and vice versa respectively, confirming the recovery of incoming tourism. in Peru.

In this regard, the manager of Cusco Airport, Juan Carlos Ponce Moreno, highlighted the importance of the resumption of international operations of LATAM and the start of operations of Avianca, because it is a sign of the recovery of tourism growth and the consolidation of Cusco. as one of the most important tourist destinations in Peru.

Likewise, he reported that to receive foreign tourists, maintenance works have been carried out in the international arrival and departure halls, in order to accelerate the boarding and immigration control process, as well as the reception of luggage through the conveyor belt.

Ponce Moreno also pointed out that with these new frequencies that link Cusco with Santiago, Bogotá and La Paz, tourists will be able to visit the wonders of said region on direct flights, without having to stop in Lima. In this sense, he said that the LATAM Airlines flight between Cusco and Santiago arrived with a significant number of Chilean tourists, eager to see the wonders of Machu Pichu, Sacsayhuamán, among others.

OTHER WORKS

On the other hand, this Thursday, October 5, the Hannaq national VIP area was inaugurated at the Velasco Astete International Airport in Cusco, being the second inauguration this month after the Tempo restaurant, which has become the most important in said air terminal. . See Flights

is a Chilean National Monument and part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site designated as Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter Works.Visitors to Humberstone are advised to make an early morning start to avoid the intense heat of the desert. The sun is unforgiving in this part of the world, so it\’s essential to bring along solar cream to protect your skin. As you explore the abandoned streets of Humberstone, you\’ll want to make sure your camera battery is fully charged, so you can take lots of photos.

Thetown was once a thriving saltpeter mining community, with a population of over 3,500 people in 1940. However, after the invention of synthetic fertilizers in the 1960s, the demand for saltpeter declined, and the town was eventually abandoned. Walking through Humberstone is like taking a step back in time. The town appears frozen in the early to mid-20thcentury, with many of the buildings and structures still standing and preserved. The abandoned houses, church, theater, and other buildings still contain remnants of the past,providing a haunting glimpse into the lives of the people who once lived and worked here.

Despite being deserted for decades, Humberstone retains a sense of eerie beauty and attracts tourists from all over the world. The deserted streets and buildings are a testament to the harsh living conditions that the miners and their families endured in this remote and inhospitable region. The saltpeter mines were notorious for their dangerous and grueling working conditions, and the workers were often paid very little for their efforts. Walking through Humberstone, visitors can see the remnants of the town\’s once-thriving economy. The old factories and machinery serve as reminders of the hard work that went into extracting saltpeter from the barren desert landscape.

The town\’s layout, complete with rows of identical houses and community buildings, provides insight into the daily lives of the miners and their families. Despite its eerie reputation, Humberstone is a fascinating place to visit. The town\’s history is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit in the face of adversity. Walking among the abandoned buildings and streets, it\’seasy to imagine the hardships that the residents of Humberstone had to endure. The saltpeter mines were a vital part of the Chilean economy and provided jobsfor thousands of workers.

To begin our journey, we departed Iquique early in the morning to avoid the sun\’s intense heat. We reached Humberstone at around 9 pm, just as the museum was opening. This expansive museum spans over 15 acres, but there are no eateries or drink stands onsite. It is important to wear protective headgear as the sun can be quite harsh. Humberstone is an ideal place to lose oneself and provides ample photo opportunities. The housing complex is filled with poignant memories, and the garages contain tools and trucks from a bygone era. As we embarked on our walking tour of the Humberstone mining town, we were mesmerized by the relicts from the past that surrounded us. The place had a fascinating allure, and we were excited to capture the memories through our photo shots.

As we wandered through the housing complex, we could see the remnants of a once-bustling community. The houses were small and basic, but the community had managed to build a school, a hospital, and even a theater. It was a glimpse into the lives of the workers who had lived and toiled in the mines, hoping to provide for their families. We could imagine the sounds of children playing in theThe town was once a bustling center for nitrate mining, and the relics of old machinery still stood tall, reminding us of the once-thriving industry. As we walked through the housing complex, we couldn\’t help but feel a sense of melancholy as we thought about the people who used to live there.

We also explored the melteres and locomotive shops, which were once the lifeline of the town. The machinery and equipment were still present, and we could almost hear the sounds of the workers who once toiled there. It was an excellent opportunity to learn about the town\’s history and the role it played in the country\’s economy. As we listened to our guide\’s stories, which made us feel as if we had stepped back in time andwe realized the hardships the miners and their families faced and the sacrifices they made-