From Pampas Green to Andean Blue: Crossing the Roof of the World via Paso de Jama

Picking up my truck at the Port of Montevideo felt like the true starting gun for this South American adventure. But the first leg wasn\’t about drama; it was about patience, distance, and green—so much green.

For hundreds of miles, the journey through Uruguay and Argentina was defined by the pampa. It’s an almost featureless expanse, an ocean of grass where the fence lines are longer than any road, and the vast herds of cattle are the true monarchs. It was a meditative drive, where days blended into long, flat stretches, preparing the mind for the vertical shock to come.

The Tilt: Reaching the Andes

The world truly tilted once we reached Jujuy. Suddenly, the smooth, flat horizon was replaced by colossal, multi-colored mountain walls. We’d reached the start of the Andes. My base for the night was Tilcara (2600 m), a beautiful pre-Andean town and home to the essential last gas station before the real climbing began.

The next morning, I was determined to get an early start to avoid the congestion of the trucker crowd on Ruta 52. This was the main event.

The climb was relentless and breathtaking. In about an hour, the truck chewed through the altitude, pushing us past the thin air barrier and up toward 4500 m. The landscape shifted from scrubland to an alien world of ochre mountains and stark white salares (salt flats). We passed through high-altitude settlements like Susques, places that feel like they defy gravity and civilization.

The Roof of the World

After about two and a half hours of climbing, we arrived at the massive, isolated border station of Paso de Jama. Once the customs check was complete, I crossed over into Chile and onto the legendary Ruta 27.

The Chilean side was even more demanding, immediately taking the elevation up to nearly 5000 m. The air was thin, the winds were high, and the only other inhabitants were the stoic Andean foxes, hunting for whatever tough life the altiplano offered. It truly felt like driving on the roof of the world.

The descent was spectacular. By early afternoon, the high desert plateau dropped into the red, arid expanse of the Atacama Desert. I passed the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama, a magnet for travelers, and finally pulled into Calama, concluding a dramatic, single-day transition from the Argentine lowlands to the highest navigable passes in the Andes. What a drive!

Paso de Jama Crossing Youtube

Description: Youtube

Join me for the most dramatic single-day drive of my South American truck trip! We start on the vast, cattle-dotted pampas of Uruguay and Argentina, but the landscape changes violently when we hit the Andes in Jujuy. Follow along as I leave Tilcara (2600m) and climb Ruta 52, crossing stunning salares (salt flats) and passing through high-altitude towns like Susques. The final ascent takes us over Paso de Jama and onto Chile’s Ruta 27, where we peak near 5000m in high winds, surrounded by Andean foxes. See the full transition from green lowlands to the arid, Martian beauty of the Atacama Desert on the way to Calama. Hit like and subscribe for more overlanding adventures!

The Inca Empire, Inca Empire or Tahuantinsuyu (Spanish version of the Quechua toponym: Tawantinsuyu, the four regions or divisions) was the largest and most developed empire in pre-Columbian America. The period of its domination is known as Incanate or Incario. It arose in the region of the Peruvian Andes between the 15th and 16th centuries as a result of the expansion of the curacazgo of Cuzco, being the second historical stage and the period of greatest apogee of the Inca civilization. It covered 2,500,000 km² between the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Amazon rainforest and the Gran Chaco in the east, from the Ancasmayo River (Colombia) to the north to the Maule River (Chile) to the south.

El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza

The significance of El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza

El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza is a historical monument that holds great significance in the history of Peru. The monument is located in the south of Peru, near the city of Tacna, where a crucial battle took place on May 26th, 1880. This battle marked a turning point in the War of the Pacific, which was fought between Chile and a coalition of Peru and Bolivia. The monument serves as a reminder of the bravery and sacrifice of the soldiers who fought in this battle and the importance of this event in shaping the history of Peru.

Apart from its historical importance, El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza also holds cultural significance. The monument complex is a symbol of national pride and unity and represents the cultural heritage of Peru. The monument complex consists of a towering obelisk, a museum, and a beautiful park, all of which showcase the rich culture and history of the region. The museum houses a collection of artifacts and exhibits that provide visitors with a glimpse into the past and help them understand the significance of the monument.

El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza is not only significant for its historical and cultural importance but also for its architectural features. The monument complex is a stunning example of neoclassical architecture, with its grand obelisk and intricate carvings. The park surrounding the monument is beautifully landscaped, providing visitors with a serene and peaceful environment. While taxi drivers can take you up to the monument, it is better to use a ride-hailing app like Indrive, where you can order a bigger car to comfortably accommodate your group. Overall, El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Peru, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and architecture.

The best mode of transportation to reach El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza

One way to reach El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza is by taking a taxi. However, there are some considerations to keep in mind when using this mode of transportation. For instance, it is essential to choose a reliable taxi company and negotiate the price beforehand. Some taxi drivers may try to overcharge tourists, so it is crucial to be aware of the typical fare for the distance traveled. Additionally, not all taxis accept credit cards, so it is important to carry cash. While taxis can be a convenient option, there are some potential drawbacks to consider.

Using InDrive to reach El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza can be a more comfortable and convenient option. InDrive is an app for fair rides that allows passengers to choose their drivers based on their rating, car model, and ride history. This ensures a higher level of safety and professionalism than traditional taxis. Additionally, InDrive offers competitive pricing and transparent fares, so passengers can avoid the stress of haggling over prices. With InDrive, passengers can enjoy a more comfortable and hassle-free ride to the monument.

If traveling in a group or with a lot of luggage, ordering a bigger car through InDrive can be a practical choice. This option provides greater comfort and convenience during the ride, allowing passengers to relax and enjoy the scenery. With a bigger car, there is also more space for luggage and other belongings, reducing the need for additional transportation. Overall, ordering a bigger car through InDrive can make the journey to El Conjunto Memorial Alto Alianza more enjoyable and stress-free.

#globetrotter #peru #bolivia #chile #monumentos #tacna #sitios peru travel Short trip in Tacna

The history and culture of Easter Island

Easter Island, also known as Rapa Nui, is a small island located in the southeastern Pacific Ocean, at the southeasternmost point of the Polynesian Triangle in Oceania. The island was first settled by Polynesian people, likely between 700 and 1100 CE. These early settlers developed a unique culture and way of life, which included the construction of impressive stone statues known as moai. These statues were built to honor their ancestors and were placed on platforms called ahu. The early Polynesian settlements on Easter Island were a thriving community, with a complex social structure and a rich artistic and cultural heritage.

One of the most striking features of Easter Island is the moai statues that dot the landscape. These massive stone figures were carved by hand from volcanic rock and transported across the island to their final resting places on ahu platforms. The construction of these statues is a testament to the ingenuity and skill of the early Polynesian settlers, who were able to create these impressive works of art using only simple tools and techniques. The purpose of the moai statues is still debated by scholars, but it is believed that they were created to honor ancestors or to serve as a symbol of power and authority.

The history of Easter Island was forever changed with the arrival of European explorers and the subsequent annexation of the island to Chile in the late 19th century. This period of European contact brought with it disease, slavery, and cultural disruption, leading to a decline in the island\’s population and a loss of traditional knowledge and practices. Despite these challenges, the people of Easter Island have maintained their unique cultural identity and continue to celebrate their heritage through traditional music, dance, and art. Today, the island\’s economy is largely based on tourism, with visitors coming from all over the world to experience the island\’s natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture.

Getting around on Easter Island

Driving on Easter Island is a popular option for tourists who wish to explore the island at their own pace. However, it\’s important to note that there is only one main road on the island, which circles the perimeter. The road is paved and well-maintained, but it can be narrow in some areas and may require cautious driving. Several car rental agencies are available on the island, and rates are relatively affordable. It\’s important to note that driving off-road is prohibited, as it can damage the delicate ecosystem and archaeological sites.

For those who prefer not to drive, public transportation options are available on Easter Island. Buses run along the main road, making stops at popular tourist destinations and towns. The buses are relatively inexpensive, but they may not be as frequent or reliable as some tourists would prefer. Additionally, the buses may not operate on Sundays or holidays.

Bicycle and walking tours are another popular way to get around Easter Island. Several tour companies offer guided tours by bike or on foot, allowing visitors to explore the island\’s natural beauty and archaeological sites. These tours are a great option for those who want to experience the island\’s unique culture and history while also getting some exercise. It\’s important to note that some of the island\’s terrain can be challenging, so visitors should be prepared for some physical exertion. Additionally, there are several affordable hotels and guesthouses on the island, making it easy to find accommodations for those who wish to explore the island at a more leisurely pace.

Accommodation options on Easter Island

Easter Island, also known as Rapa Nui, offers a range of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. For budget-conscious travelers, there are several cheap hotels and hostels available on the island. These options offer basic amenities and simple accommodations, but are a great choice for those looking to save money and spend more time exploring the island. Visitors can find these budget-friendly options through online booking platforms or by contacting local travel agencies.

For those looking for more mid-range or luxury accommodations, there are several hotels on the island that offer more amenities and services. These hotels provide comfortable rooms, on-site restaurants, and various recreational activities, such as swimming pools and spa facilities. Some of these hotels also offer guided tours and excursions to explore the island\’s unique attractions, making them a great choice for those looking for a more comprehensive travel experience.

Visitors looking for a more unique and authentic experience can opt for staying in a traditional Rapa Nui house or camping. These accommodations offer a chance to immerse oneself in the local culture and traditions, and to experience the island\’s natural beauty up close. Camping is also a popular option for those looking to explore the island\’s more remote areas and enjoy the great outdoors. Visitors can book these unique accommodations through local travel agencies or online booking platforms. In conclusion, Easter Island offers a variety of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference. Whether visitors are looking for a budget-friendly hostel, a mid-range hotel, or a unique cultural experience, there is something for everyone on this beautiful island.

The ancestral Rapa Nui crafts and their traditional techniques

The ancestral Rapa Nui craftsmanship is one of the most authentic expressions of the culture of this people. However, there is little knowledge about this art form. The exhibition \”Tapa\’o Tupuna: Ancestral Rapa Nui Crafts\” seeks to spread this tradition through the works of island cultists. Rapa Nui craftsmanship stands out for its extraordinary technical development in Eastern Polynesia. In particular, the techniques of weaving with plant fibers and carving in wood and stone are notable.

Weaving techniques with plant fibers are a fundamental part of Rapa Nui ancestral crafts. The island\’s inhabitants use fibers from plants such as hau, mahute and patiu to create baskets, bags and other everyday objects. Basket weaving is an ancient tradition in Chile, and in Rapa Nui, the textile technique is related to traditional clothing and the use of fibers. The weaving pieces feature geometric patterns and symbolic designs that represent the culture and history of the island. An example of this technique is the ocher and purple vegetable fiber basket, woven concentrically and sewn with cotton thread.

Wood and stone carving is another prominent technique in Rapa Nui ancestral crafts. The island\’s artisans use traditional tools to sculpt human figures, animals and other decorative objects. These carvings are linked to rites and ancient traditions, and their ancestral role is fundamental in the Rapa Nui culture. In addition, the artisans have received influences from other cultures, such as the Mapuche, which also have a rich tradition in wood carving. The presence of carvings in the collection of the \”Tapa\’o Tupuna\” exhibition allows visitors to connect with ancestral Rapa Nui crafts and learn more about this cultural expression.

In the heart of the Andes mountains, a young vulture was discovered in a sorry state. He had been abandoned by his flock and was in dire need of help. The bird was brought to a local animal rescue center, where he was named Mendoza, after the region where he was found. Mendoza\’s journey from his rescue to his eventual release back into the wild is a heartwarming tale of animal rescue that highlights the importance of compassion and dedication in wildlife conservation.

Mendoza\’s story began when he was found by a group of hikers in the Andes mountains. The young vulture was in a pitiful condition, with a broken wing and malnourished body. The hikers immediately contacted a local animal rescue center, where Mendoza was taken in and nursed back to health. The rescue team worked tirelessly to heal Mendoza\’s wing and provide him with the necessary care and nutrition he needed to recover. Over time, Mendoza developed a close bond with his rescuers and became a beloved member of the animal rescue center.

Preparing Mendoza for release back into the wild was a challenging process. The rescue team had to ensure that Mendoza was physically fit and ready for the wild. They also had to teach him critical survival skills, such as hunting and foraging for food. Mendoza\’s behavior during the preparation phase was closely monitored, and the team worked hard to ensure that he was comfortable and confident in his abilities. The biggest challenge, however, was ensuring Mendoza\’s survival in the wild. The team had to carefully choose a release site that would provide Mendoza with the best chance of survival.

The day of Mendoza\’s release was an emotional moment for everyone involved. The rescue team had grown attached to the young vulture, and they knew that releasing him back into the wild was the best thing for him. Mendoza initially struggled to adjust to his new environment, but over time, he began to thrive. He learned to hunt and forage for food, and he even found a mate. Seeing Mendoza succeed in the wild was a truly joyous moment for his rescuers, and it highlighted the importance of their work in preserving wildlife.

Mendoza\’s journey from his rescue to his release back into the wild is a heartwarming tale of animal rescue. It highlights the importance of compassion, dedication, and hard work in wildlife conservation. Mendoza\’s story serves as a reminder that every animal, no matter how small or insignificant, deserves a chance to live and thrive in their natural habitat. The rescue team\’s efforts to save Mendoza and prepare him for release back into the wild are a testament to the power of human kindness and the impact that it can have on the world around us.

In the heart of the Andes mountains, a young vulture was discovered in a sorry state. He had been abandoned by his flock and was in dire need of help. The bird was brought to a local animal rescue center, where he was named Mendoza, after the region where he was found. Mendoza\’s journey from his rescue to his eventual release back into the wild is a heartwarming tale of animal rescue that highlights the importance of compassion and dedication in wildlife conservation.

Mendoza\’s story began when he was found by a group of hikers in the Andes mountains. The young vulture was in a pitiful condition, with a broken wing and malnourished body. The hikers immediately contacted a local animal rescue center, where Mendoza was taken in and nursed back to health. The rescue team worked tirelessly to heal Mendoza\’s wing and provide him with the necessary care and nutrition he needed to recover. Over time, Mendoza developed a close bond with his rescuers and became a beloved member of the animal rescue center.

Preparing Mendoza for release back into the wild was a challenging process. The rescue team had to ensure that Mendoza was physically fit and ready for the wild. They also had to teach him critical survival skills, such as hunting and foraging for food. Mendoza\’s behavior during the preparation phase was closely monitored, and the team worked hard to ensure that he was comfortable and confident in his abilities. The biggest challenge, however, was ensuring Mendoza\’s survival in the wild. The team had to carefully choose a release site that would provide Mendoza with the best chance of survival.

The day of Mendoza\’s release was an emotional moment for everyone involved. The rescue team had grown attached to the young vulture, and they knew that releasing him back into the wild was the best thing for him. Mendoza initially struggled to adjust to his new environment, but over time, he began to thrive. He learned to hunt and forage for food, and he even found a mate. Seeing Mendoza succeed in the wild was a truly joyous moment for his rescuers, and it highlighted the importance of their work in preserving wildlife.

Mendoza\’s journey from his rescue to his release back into the wild is a heartwarming tale of animal rescue. It highlights the importance of compassion, dedication, and hard work in wildlife conservation. Mendoza\’s story serves as a reminder that every animal, no matter how small or insignificant, deserves a chance to live and thrive in their natural habitat. The rescue team\’s efforts to save Mendoza and prepare him for release back into the wild are a testament to the power of human kindness and the impact that it can have on the world around us.

In northern Chile, Teofila Challapa learned to weave surrounded by the hills and sandy roads of the Atacama Desert.

\”Spin the threads, girl,\” her grandmother told her a half a century ago.

Aymara women like Challapa, now 59, become acquainted with wool threads under blue skies and air so thin that outsiders struggle to breathe. While herding llamas and alpacas through scarce grasslands 11,500 feet above sea level, they create their first textiles.

\”We had no clothes or money, so we needed to learn how to dress with our own hands,\” said Challapa, sitting next to fluffy alpacas outside her humble home in Cariquima, a town with fewer than 500 inhabitants near the Chile-Bolivia border.

The knowledge of her craft passes on from one generation to another, securing Aymara families\’ bond with their land.

Challapa prays before beginning her work: \”Mother Earth, give me strength, because you\’re the one who will produce, not me.\”

Teofila Challapa weaves on her loom at home in Cariquima, Chile, on July 31, 2023. Challapa prays before beginning her work: “Mother Earth, give me strength, because you\’re the one who will produce, not me.\”

Among the 3 million Aymaras who live along the borders of Chile, Perú and Bolivia, the Earth is known as \”Pachamama.\” Homages and rituals requesting her blessings are intertwined in everyday life.

\”I believe in God, but the Earth provides us with everything,\” Challapa said.

Pachamama offers Challapa inspiration for her textiles, connections to ancestors and her cultural identity. It provides means for survival, too.

\”My animals are my mother,\” Challapa said.

Her alpacas and llamas were a source of meat, wool and company during the tough years she spent raising her children as a single mother. Llamas that belong to Teofila Challapa stand behind her home in Cariquima, Chile, on July 31, 2023. Challapa said her alpacas and llamas were a source of meat, wool and company during the tough years she spent raising her children as a single mother.

In the neighboring town of Colchane, Efrain Amaru and Maria Choque share their one-floor house with Pepe, an elegant white llama that flirts with visitors.

Hotels in San Pedro de Atacama

\”To be an artisan, one must have the raw materials,\” said Amaru, a 60-year-old descendant of Aymara craftsmen. His parents taught him how to raise camelids that produce the finest wool. \”You have to communicate with your animals because they are part of you.\”

Ahead of Pachamama Day, on August 1, the couple prepared a ritual honoring Mother Earth. Over a mantle they weaved for the occasion, they placed grains from their crops and pieces of wool — among other objects they are grateful for — and asked for prosperity.

\”We make offerings hoping for good seeds and crops, welfare for our animals and rain,\” Choque said. \”Then we turn to the moon and the stars. Our grandparents told us that those are the souls of our ancestors, who look at us from above.\”

Teofila Challapa, weaves on her loom at home in Cariquima, Chile, on July 31, 2023. Challapa, 59, said her grandmother told her half a century ago: “Spin the threads, girl.\”

Choque learned how to turn wool into thread when she was 6. Without toys to play with, Choque said, she and her peers spent their days watching their elders weave — a demonstration of the craft and how to live fulfilling lives.

Her grandmother was her first teacher. After giving her a sewing needle, she taught Choque how to produce socks and hats. Vests and ponchos came after that.

Once a young disciple masters sewing needles, she moves on to weaving on looms. A few years later, she\’ll face her utmost challenge: weaving her own \”aksu,\” the Aymara\’s most precious and traditional garment.

\”My aksu is not a suit,\” Choque said. \”It\’s a part of me. When I was little, I wore mine daily, until I had to wear a uniform for school.\”

From wool production to fabric making, the entire textile-making process can take up to two years.

Aymara Indigenous women graze their llamas in Colchane, Chile, on July 31, 2023. Aymara women create wool textiles from the hair of their llamas and alpacas, which they graze on scarce grasslands 11,500 feet above sea level.

Aymara craftswomen shear their animals in October, when the weather is milder. Their llamas keep a few inches of wool to keep them warm and ready for the \”floreo.\” During this ancient ritual celebrated in February, Aymaras tie wool flowers and pompoms to their camelids identifying them as their property and thanking Pachamama for abundance.

Once the wool is collected and clean, craftswomen manipulate it with the tip of their fingers and pull threads out of it, creating skeins that are mounted on their looms for weaving.

Flights to Iquique – Northern Chile – IQQ

Through the income they made from the sale of their textiles, Aymara women like Challapa and Choque could afford to send their children off to school.

\”I thank God because I always told myself: I don\’t want them to be like me,\” said Marcelina Choque (no relation to Maria), another craftswoman who lives in the town of Pozo Almonte. \”This is my only profession. If I don\’t sell, I have nothing.\”

Homes stand in Pozo Almonte, Chile, on July 30, 2023. Several Aymara Indigenous craftswomen agree their legacy might be in danger because so many young people move away from their hometowns for study and work.

Progress, though, is bittersweet. \”I taught my daughters how to weave just like me, but now that they have other jobs, they don\’t weave anymore,\” Marcelina Choque said.

Because so many young people move away from their hometowns for study and work, several craftswomen agree their legacy might be in danger. Although they passed on their knowledge to their descendants, there are currently only a handful of young Aymara women who know how to use a loom.

\”In rural areas, there is a significant migration of young people, and the population is aging,\” said Luis Pizarro, who works at the Agricultural Development Institute of Chile. \”Their grandparents are the ones who remain in the territories, so their cultural roots are severed.\”

The institute supports rural development for Chilean communities linked to the Aymara culture, according to Pizarro. The goal is to boost camelid farming and craft sales through fairs, an online presence and special events.

On a recent weekend, the institute held a fashion show inside a city shopping center in Iquique, where Teofila Challapa, Maria Choque and other women sold textiles and their daughters modeled their work.

\”We try to get daughters and granddaughters of artisans involved in their cultural inheritance,\” Pizarro said.

An Aymara Indigenous woman shows handwoven woolen crafts made on the sidelines of a fashion show showcasing Indigenous creations in Iquique, Chile, on July 29, 2023. The Agricultural Development Institute of Chile organized the show to boost camelid farming and craft sales.

Nayareth Challapa (no relation to Teofila) speaks proudly about her mother, Maria Aranibar, who taught her how to pick the perfect weeds to dye wool.

\”The colors of our textiles are related to nature: the earth, the sky, the hills. The land is sacred for us,\” the 25-year old said. The work reflects craftswomen\’s moods and \”the rheas, llamas, flowers and mountains she wants to keep present.\”

She, too, moved to a city to attend university, but home is never far from her heart.

\”When migrating, many forget their ethnicity and leave their roots behind,\” Challapa said. \”But my family tries to avoid that. We herd the llamas and raise crops to preserve what my grandfather taught us. If we were to lose that, we would lose him as well.\”